Outdoor Bromeliad Care

Variegated Pineapple - Bromeliad

For people living in climates that have a colder season, bromeliads do well during the summer, in containers on porches and patios. If you want the bromeliads to appear as part of your landscaping, dig a hole and bury the container. This way the bromeliad will look like it is growing in the ground, but it can be easily moved inside before any frost sets in.

Indoor Bromeliad Care

Bromeliads make great indoor plants. They have few needs and very few problem pests. With the right care you can enjoy bromeliads in your home year round or seasonally during the winter for many years.

Water

The first care concern is water. Bromeliads are adapted to withstand drought, but cannot survive root rot that comes from being overwatered. It is important that your bromeliad is planted in a medium that allows for fast drainage, and that your pot allows water to move through easily.  Each time you water the potting medium, thoroughly soak it so that the water runs out the drainage holes, this will remove any salt build up in the potting media. Don’t water the bromeliad again until at least the top two inches of potting media are dry. Any more often than this and the plant will be sitting in too much water and could succumb to root rot. Many bromeliads also have what is often called a tank. This is the part of the plant where the leaves meet together and form a sort of cup. Bromeliads can also take in water by filling the tank. However, if you fill the tank you must clean it frequently to prevent salt build up and remove any fungus. Sitting water in the tank also risks rotting the flower spike. Watering just the potting media should be sufficient for most bromeliads, so you don’t have to risk keeping the tank full. If you have an epiphytic bromeliad, meaning a bromeliad that is growing on a rock, tree bark, or other mount, instead of a pot with potting media, watering is a bit different. You can simply keep the plant moist by misting it regularly. It is important to never use a metal container to water a bromeliad. Bromeliads are very sensitive to metal and the results could be devastating to your plant.

Humidity

Another moisture concern is humidity. Just like bromeliads that are grown outdoors, indoor bromeliads also need ideally 60% humidity. This level of humidity can be very difficult to maintain, especially in a home that is being heated by a furnace in the winter. There are several options for increasing the level of humidity. The first is you could buy a humidifier and run it regularly, close to the plant’s location. The next is you can take a tray, fill it with small pebbles or decorative stones, then fill it with water. You can set your pots on or near the tray and the water will add moisture to the air. If you set the container on top to the tray, make sure it is not setting in the water. This will keep the bromeliad’s roots too soggy. Another option is to place a few more plants in the vicinity of the bromeliad, transpiration will help raise the humidity. The final option is simple, but requires a bit more diligence, use a spray bottle to mist the plant regularly.

Pots and Potting Media

Pots and potting media can directly affect the moisture levels in the bromeliad. If you are in an arid region or raising you bromeliad in a heated home. It would be wise to use a plastic pot because they tend to hold in more moisture. If you are living in a very humid area a clay pot should work well. Never use soil to pot you bromeliad, it is too dense and will become soggy. Instead you can use potting mixes specially formulated for bromeliads, or mix your own using porous materials.

Light

Bromeliads have a wide range of tolerance for light. Some varieties prefer bright light, while other thrive in almost constant shade. For the most part bromeliads like bright sunny spaces, but not direct light. Exposure to a lot of direct sunlight for an extended period of time can cause damage to the leaves. In the winter, a south facing window is ideal.

Fertilizing

It is not necessary to fertilize bromeliads very often. You can occasionally use a water soluble fertilizer, but be careful to watch for salt build up.  If you want to encourage the production of pups (offshoots of the mother plant, that can eventually be repotted on their own) then fertilize slightly more frequently.

Flowering

Deep Red Bromeliad

Bromeliads flower only once. The brightly colored leaves that are often mistaken for flowers, are actually bracts or modified leaves. Typically small flowers grow within these attractive bracts. Some species send up a flower spike that extends well above the plant. Once a Bromeliad has flowered it will no longer produce new leaves. It will (or already has) produced pups. The flower on a bromeliad can last 2-3 months and the colorful bracts even longer.You can cut back the flower once it becomes unsightly. Eventually the mother plant will also die, it will however, introduce pups. Pups can be allowed to grow with the mother plant. Or, once they have grown to be about six inches they can be repotted and allowed to grow into an individual plant. Pups grown separate from the mother plant will take about 2 years to reach flowering stage. Pups left attached to the mother plant will grow slightly faster.

Following a few simple steps can keep you enjoying bromeliads, both indoors and out, for several seasons.

• Make sure the plants stay moist but not soggy.
• Provide bright light without direct sun.
• Maintain optimal humidity.
• Keep air flowing around the plants.
• Fertilize sparingly
• Provide adequate drainage.

Always read the specifications for your particular bromeliad so that you can provide the proper amount of light and water, and enjoy a piece of the tropics in your own home!

Sources

“Bromeliad Fact Sheet” Smithsonian Institution, Katie Elzer,

http://gardens.si.edu/horticulture/res_ed/fctsht/brome.html

“How to Care for Bromeliads” WikiHow, http://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-a-Bromeliad

Bromeliad Society International, http://www.bsi.org/

Pineapple History

The pineapple was first introduced in Spain by Christopher Columbus who had found the fruit in the Caribbean Islands. It was named piña (the Spanish word for pine cone) because of its resemblance to the pine cone. In the English language it was referred to as the pineapple, as were pine cones, which were assigned their new name later.  While Columbus found the fruit in the Caribbean, the fruit traces its origins back to southern Brazil and Paraguay. Since its introduction to Europe, the pineapple has been popularized all over the world.  Part of its spread around the globe may be attributed to its use on ships to prevent scurvy. James Dole started one of the first United States companies to begin growing pineapples in Hawaii. He began with his first pineapple plantation in 1900. Dole opened a cannery a year later in 1901. Del Monte followed shortly after in 1917.  In 2009, however, it was the Philippines that topped the world’s pineapple production, producing 2,198 thousand metric tons of fruit.  While pineapple can be delicious fresh from the grocery store, it can also be fun to grow in your home or greenhouse.

Grow Your Own Pineapples

There are several ways to start a pineapple plant. The easiest way to get started is to purchase a pineapple from the grocery store. Grasp the leaves (the crown) of the pineapple near where they meet the fruit. Gently twist, while pulling away from the fruit. The leaves will pull off leaving only a small nubbin where they once met the fruit. If there is any extra flesh attached, remove it as it could cause root rot later. Next gently pull away the bottom few layers of leaves, as you do this you will expose new roots. Pull the leaves away about an inch up the stalk or until you no longer see the root starts. Allow the crown to dry 5-7 days before planting.

Choosing a Container

Once you are ready to pot your pineapple, choose an 8 inch container.  Eventually, the plant will need to be transplanted to a larger pot. Many grocery store bought pineapples can grow as tall as four feet and have a four foot diameter. There are other varieties that can be purchased from growers that do not grow as large. To prepare your container, place a pottery shard over the drainage hole and fill the rest of the pot, minus a few inches with potting mix. Pineapples are not particular about soil, so any commercial potting mix that allows drainage will work. Then place the crown in the pot and add soil around it. Pat the soil so that the crown stands up, but do not pack it tightly.  Be careful not to disturb the crown for a few weeks, when the roots take hold. Until then, it will be top heavy and easily tipped.

Water

To finish, water the soil thoroughly, but do not let it become very soggy. Pineapples do not do well when they stay wet. Continue to keep the soil moist but not wet.  Pineapples are drought tolerant and will grow more slowly, but not die, when they do not receive enough water. However, the roots will rot if over watered. It is better to err on the side of under watering.

Light

Pineapples perform well in tropical climates, and persistent freezing temperatures will kill it. If you live in an area with a winter season, your plant will need to remain indoors. Choose a sunny window that will not get too cold at night. When you are planning the space in which your pineapple will grow, keep in mind the eventual size and make sure there is enough room.  Pineapples prefer a lot of light to grow. If you do not have a window with enough light, or your days become very short in the winter, you may want supplement with artificial grow lights. If you are planning to move your pineapple outdoors for the summer, start it out in a shady space for a week, until it acclimates, then place the plant in direct sun.

Fruit

While the pineapple plant provides beautiful foliage all the time, the fruit requires patience. It can take as long as three years between planting the crown and harvesting the fruit. When the plant produces fruit has largely to do with the size and maturity of the plant. In ideal conditions, between 12 and 14 months the plant will start an inflorescence bud in the center of the leaves. Two months later a bright red cone appears. The cone will then be covered with a blue flower lasting only a day. Flower development typically happens during days of shorter duration. After the flowering, the pineapple may take another four months or longer to ripen. When the fruit has turned from green to a golden color it is ripe. It will also have a sweet smell.

Propagation

After the pineapple produces fruit it will produce suckers. The suckers grow faster while attached to the original plant, so wait as long as possible; at least allow them to grow twelve inches, before removing them.  These plants are likely to produce fruit a bit faster than growing the plant from the crown of the pineapple. Once the sucker or slip is removed from the plant, you can start it growing the same way the crown was started for the original plant.

Pests

The most common pests for the home grown pineapple are scale and mealy bugs. For a small infestation, they can be washed off with mild soap and water, and then rinsed.  For a larger infestation, pesticides can be used. However, be sure to follow the instructions carefully and seek the advice of a professional before application.

Uses

The pineapple fruit has a variety of uses. It is sweet and delicious eaten fresh, however, if it is unripe it can be poisonous and cause severe stomach irritation.  Fresh pineapple cannot be added to jams or gelatin because it contains an enzyme called bromelain. Bromelain breaks down protein therefore hindering jams and gelatins from setting.  This same enzyme also makes fresh pineapple juice an excellent tenderizer for meet and is found in many different marinades. Bromelain is broken down when pineapple is cooked, so canned pineapple does not contain the enzyme. It can be used without concern for the effects of Bromelain.

Downsides of Commercial Production

Commercially produced pineapple does have some draw backs. A substantial amount of organophosphates, a dangerous pesticide, is used on pineapple plantations. In Costa Rica, Europe’s largest pineapple supplier, 20 kilograms of various pesticides are used per hectare, per growing cycle. Not only does this harm biodiversity, soil quality and drinking water, but it can also pose a threat to laborers’ health. By purchasing organic pineapples or growing your own, you can avoid contributing to this problem.

Hospitality

Dating back to colonial times, the pineapple has been a symbol of hospitality. Throughout the United States it can still be found as wood carvings in gardens, hanging on front doors, placed in centerpieces on tables and anywhere else a guest may be welcomed. This majestic fruit can be fun to enjoy on decorations and as a plant in your home. It is a beautiful and easily propagated bromeliad. Under the right conditions, it can even provide a delicious treat. With patience and care you can enjoy growing your own fresh pineapple.

Sources

“Pineapple” Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pineapple

“Starting a Pineapple Plant From a Pineapple” Bromeliad Society International.  John Atlee http://www.bsi.org/brom_info/growing/pineapple.html

“Pineapple” Fruits of Warm Climates. Julia F. Morton. http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/pineapple.html

“How to Grow a Pineapple in Your Home” Pineapple Research Institute of Hawaii http://tpss.hawaii.edu/pineapple/pinegrow.htm

Before we discuss what to use as growing media for bromeliads, there are a few things you must understand about the anatomy of bromeliads and how they collect water and nutrients to grow.

Types of Bromeliads

There are three types of bromeliads, epiphytic, saxicolous, and terrestrial. You are probably most familiar with terrestrial plants. It means exactly what it sounds like; it lives in the ground. Its roots are anchored in the soil and provide stability and some nutrients and water.  Epiphytic comes from greek roots epi meaning upon and phyton which means plant. Epiphytes grow on other plants, usually woody plants. They do not live parasitically, but use the plant as an anchor and gather water and nutrients from the air with small hairs called trichomes. Saxicolous bromeliads grow on rocks, using them as anchors, and gather water and nutrients in the same manner as epiphytes. Many bromeliads can live either as epiphytes or terrestrials. Most bromeliads also collect water in “tanks.” Leaves fuse together to make a rosette shape, water can be poured into these cups and is taken up by the plant. You should rinse these tanks occasionally, as they can be come salinated.

Mounting Epiphytes

Ephiphyte Bromeliad

Epiphytes can be mounted on various structures and add an interesting element to a plant collection. There are different methods for mounting epiphytes, but most involve untreated wood. You can use cork bark or tree fern slabs. Cedar, juniper, oak, mesquite and rosewood are good woods to use that are rot resistant. Stumps also make fun, unique mounts. Make sure that any wood you use is not treated and salt free. Any wood that has been treated with copper will kill the bromeliad. Any surface that is rough and porous, with no chemical will work as a mount.  If you want your mount to hang, be sure to add a hook.

Once you have found a mount you can choose your plant. Many plants in the genres Tillandsia, Billbergia, and Aechmeas are epiphytes that will mount nicely.  It may be easiest to mount pups because their root system has not matured yet. You can use plants that have already formed a root ball in the soil, but you will need to cover the soft roots with sphagnum moss. The moss must be wet down regularly in order for the soft roots to take up nutrients.

One way to attach the bromeliad to the mount is to tie it with fishing line or strips of nylon stockings. The plant must not have any room to wiggle or the roots will break off.

Another way to fix the bromeliad to the mount is with nontoxic glues, such as “Liquid Nails.” Hot glue can be used, but take care to let it cool a few seconds before you attach the plant so that it is not damaged.  Most glues will break down over time especially in the presence of water.  Glues with the ingredients Toluene, VM, and Pnaptha, such as “Shoe Goo” and “Plumbers Goop” are totally waterproof and will not break down over time. Use just a small amount to attach the plant and do not cover the base, or root growth may be inhibited.

The last way to mount cannot be used for all bromeliads, but many produce a long woody stolon. Many Aechmeas produce this feature. This woody stolon can be stapled or nailed to the mount. Be sure to use two nails or staples so that the plant does not turn.

Humidity

Keep in mind that mounted bromeliads need much more water and higher humidity than terrestrial bromeliads. If the air is very dry, roots may have difficulty attaching and foliage will suffer. One way to keep air moist in dry indoor climates, especially during cold months, is to place trays of pebbles or decorative rocks, filled with water, underneath or near the mounts. The water will evaporate into the air and make the environment around the bromeliads slightly more humid.  It is still important to keep a careful eye on mounted bromeliads and water them regularly. You can also mist the plants with a spray bottle occasionally.

Terrestrial Bromeliads

Potted bromeliads also require some special considerations. When you are choosing your growing media be aware that bromeliads cannot grow in regular soil, they must have a mix formulated specifically for potting.  These mixes can vary greatly base on preference and it may take some trial and error to find the mix that is perfect for the bromeliads you want to grow. In general the potting mix must be acidic. It must also be coarse so that water is drained away from the roots. Bromeliads like to be damp but not soggy. If the roots stay too wet for too long they will rot. The potting mix must provide aeration as well, as bromeliads roots do not respond well if they are tightly packed.  You can purchase a mix that is already formulated for bromeliads, and some orchid potting soils work as well. Or, you can make your own potting mixture. Ingredients you can use include humus, orchid bark, coarse perlite, pumice, sphagnum moss and tree fern fibers.

Bromeliad Flower (Genus Tillandsia)

Do not layer your media for drainage, for example putting gravel on the bottom of the pot, this requires that the first layer become saturated before the water will move and you do not want the potting media around the roots to become saturated. A coarse potting mixture will provide plenty of movement and drainage without layering.

Containers

When choosing a container, consider your location and watering habits. If you typically over water or you are keeping your bromeliad in a humid environment, you may want to use a clay pot. This will allow the soil to dry out faster and prevent the roots from becoming too soggy. If you are in a dry climate, or are keeping your plants indoors where there is a lot of air flow such as heat or air conditioning you may want to use plastic or ceramic containers. These containers will keep the roots moist and prevent drying.

The size of a bromeliad is also not an indication of how large your pot should be. Roots for bromeliads are relatively small and should be kept in a small pot. Large pots will stay wet and cause problems for the root systems. Four to Six inches is a large enough container for most bromeliad species. If the bromeliad becomes too large to be stable in such a small container, fill a larger pot, that will support the plant, and then place the small pot inside. This will keep your top-heavy bromeliad stable.

Points to Remember

There are several things to keep in mind as you establish your bromeliads,

• If you are mounting epiphytes, use rot resistant wood that has not been treated.
• Take care to make sure the plants are fastened securely whether with nylon, glue or nails through stolons.
• Take care to make sure your mounted plant is staying moist enough.
• If you are potting a bromeliad, use coarse potting mix that is acidic.
• Plant your bromeliad in a 4-6 inch pot. If your plant is too large, place the small pot within a larger container for stability.

Growing bromeliads can be fun and easy. Your plants will get the healthiest start if they are established in the proper growing media and environment.

Sources

“Bromeliad Basic Culture” Collecting Bromeliads and Orchids in Florida. http://www.jacksbromeliads.com/basicculture.htm

“Bromeliaceae” Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bromeliad

“Mounting Bromeliads” Bromeliad Society Internationl, Odean Head,

http://www.bsi.org/brom_info/growing/mounting.html

When a bromeliad plant reaches maturity it will stop producing leaves and the flower will bloom into a beautiful, unique formation. At this point, the healthy bromeliad will produce offshoot plants from the base called pups.

When your bromeliad begins producing pups it is exciting. The mother plant is reaching its maturity, but is leaving you with more plants to care for in the future. Proper harvesting of the pups can lead to more beautiful bromeliads and the potential for an ongoing generation of bromeliads for your plantscape.

Beginner’s Guide to Bromeliad Pups

Bromeliad pups are offsets of the main bromeliad plant often called the mother plan in this situation. The mother will grow its lone flower and will stop producing leaves. At this point, a mother will beging producing the pups. The pups are easily identified as new offshoots of the original plant. Pups will not have flowers at this point. You will be able to see the cup forming as the pup grows upward from the offset of the base of the mother. When the pup reaches a certain size you are able to harvest, plant, and care for it on its own. The original mother will continue to thrive as a flower and produce more pups. The pup will grow until it reaches its own maturity.

Defining a Bromeliad Pup

Flaming Sword Bromeliads ( Vriesea splendens )

A bromeliad pup is the offset of another bromeliad plant. Once a mature bromeliad reaches the point where it has a healthy flower and a strong core, it will produce pups. The original plant, also known as the mother, will stop producing leaves and will begin producing its pups.

There can be multiple pups grown at the same time. The pups will grow from the base of the mother plant. Pups will grow as they feed off the original bromeliad. Once removed, give plenty of food to the pups. Just as any growing organism needs food, the pups require much food and a good, but not too much, amount of water. The pups require enough food to grow into full blooming bromeliads.

Eventually, the pups will reach a point where they can be harvested and moved to their own location.

Pups form on nearly all bromeliads. The pups form in much the same way on each of the different varieties. There are some differences including specifically the way the pup can grow from the base of the parent, but for the most part the pups will grow from the base of the parent and can be removed by pulling and tearing sideways from the parent or mother bromeliad.

Harvesting a Bromeliad Pup

Pups will eventually start to grow their own root system next to the mother plan. It’s at this point, when the pup is about one third the size of the mother plan, that the pup can be harvested.

The pup can be removed from its place at the base of the mother plan. When the pup is about one third the size of the original plan, you can peel the pup away from the mother. There may be roots forming from the base of the pup. This is a good sign. It means the pup is ready to be on its own in a new pot or in the ground depending on where you are planning to set the plant. If there are no roots you are still in good shape. Make sure the bromeliad pup is of good size before harvesting and it should be ready to go into its own system and no longer will need to feed from the mother plant.

Often times there will be an outer leaf on the outside of the pup. You can tear this leaf away and reveal the entire base of the pup. You can then tear away or cut away the base of the pup from the mother bromeliad.

You can do this with all pups on the mother plant if there are multiple. You can replace the soil around the mother plant and it should continue to bloom and even grow more pups.

And then you can move the pups to their own pots and they will start to mature on their own.

Planting a Bromeliad Pup

There is some care necessary when planing a bromeliad pup.

After you’ve harvested your pups from the mother you’ll want to prepare individual pots or areas for planting. You’ll want to make sure the new plant is placed in a shallow bed of of soil with room for the roots to grow down. This way of planting will leave the pup plant a little top heavy so be sure to set the plant well so it’s balanced.

You can use wood sticks or stakes to hold the plant up until it reaches a level of root quality to withstand its own weight. This is a crucial period for the bromeliad pup. The roots may or may not have grown, but either way the roots will not be able to withhold the top weight of the pup. After some time the roots will form and you’ll have a healthy bromeliad pup that can sustain on its own without the support. It can be very rewarding at this point to know you’ve successfully transferred and planted your own bromeliad pup.

Caring for a Bromeliad Pup

Blooming Pink Bromeliad

Once the bromeliad pup is transferred there are a few steps to take to ensure its success. We’ve already mentioned that you’ll probably need to prop up the top of the plant with wooden spikes or staks. These will support the plant as it grows its roots, which will later support the weight of the leaves and the base of the bromeliad. You can tell the plant is ready to grow on its own by giving a slight pull on the plant. If there is resistance you’ll know the roots have taken hold in the soil and will be able to support the plant. You’ll have to judge a little from your own experience if there is enough support in the root system to support the weight of the plant.

You’ll want to give the pup less light than full grown, mature bromeliads. The pup will need water, but only enough to keep the moisture at a medium level in the soil. You don’t want to over-water the bromeliad pup since this could cause rotting at the base of the plant, which could lead to the plant not making it through this critical stage.

As the plant becomes stable with its roots system you can remove the supports and allow it to start receiving more light. You can provide the plant with some good light in the morning especially during the summer months. Shade for the rest of the day after the morning sun usually leads to a good bloom on a bromeliad. Light, warmth, and humidity seem to be the three factors that lead to strong blooming for bromeliads. This is evident by their nature to grow in the hot climates around the equator and in other areas of much moisture and hot temperatures.

Taking a bromeliad from the pup stage to the full maturity stage is very rewarding. It’s a process that can be repeated over and over. With proper care it can be a great way to slowly build your collection and continue fostering a beautiful garden for generations. With a few proper steps you’ll be able to effortlessly take pups from their mothers to their own pots and have them blooming and looking wonderful in a short period of time. The entire process of the bromeliad pup takes about a year to two years to transpire. It’s a very rewarding process for any gardener and bromeliad enthusiast.

Sources

BSI.org (http://www.bsi.org/)

Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bromeliaceae)

One of the most common in cultivation, probably because it is so easy to grow, is X Cryptbergia rubra. It forms a stiff rosette about 9 inches (23cm) across of 20-30 hard, recurving, tapering leaves, glossy mahogany-red on top, silvery grey beneath. The dense stemless flower head in the center of the plant has the yellow and blue flowers of Billbergia nutans and lasts a week in color. Offsets are produced on short stolons and root easily, to flower in one year. It likes peat and sand compost, with regular feeding at every third watering, and very bright light – almost full sun. A temperature of 45 degrees F (7 degrees C) does not trouble this plant at all.

However, most Quesnelia have spine-edged and spine-tipped leaves and are less attractive as houseplants for this reason. The species most often seen is Quesnelia have spine-edged and spine-tipped leaves and are less attractive as houseplants for this reason. The species most often seen is Quesnelia liboniana. It is a narrow, few-leaved, upright tube, 1 1/2 ft (45cm) tall, with spine-edged grey-green leaves. The flower spike has a red stem and blue and red flowers in April, sometimes followed by orange-yellow berries. The pups form at the ends of long, very spiny stolons.

This is easily constructed with wooden boards about 9 inches (23cm) wide, which are placed on the floor of the greenhouse to make a rectangular frame of the required size. Set a couple of dead tree branches or artificial trees (see my Making A Bromeliad Tree post) in the middle and then put a layer of broken brick in the bottom of the frame to a depth of about 3 inches (7.5cm). Finally, fill the frame with a mixture of equal volumes of coarse sand and moss peat. The trees may be planted with Tillandsia and other epiphytic plants and the bed below can house the more shade-loving bromeliads. Many other plants, like begonias, geserias and ferns, will also thrive in such a planting.

Other plants related to Aechmea are encountered from time to time, such as Hohenbergia, Portea and Streptocalyx. These too tend to be rather large for the average grower and mostly require a winter temperature of 60 degrees F (15 degrees C).

Further appearance of the sphagnum moss. When the moss is green and obviously damp, water is not needed, but when it becomes whitish in color and crisp to the touch, water should be given. Rainwater is preferable, using a fine spray and making sure that the whole assembly is soaked. The addition of a high potash liquid fertilizer at every third watering is recommended.

Planted with bromeliads that remain fairly compact, the tree will last for several years and may be moved about between greenhouse and home without difficulty. Good plants for the purpose are the smaller Billbergia, Crypthanthus, Vriesea carinata, Guzmania lingulata, X Cryptbergia rubra, the dwarf Neoregelia and, if the tree can be kept in a very light position, the grey-leaved Tillandsia. In a greenhouse, larger plants of many genera may also be accommodated.

For more tips and information of how to make a tree for a bromeliad, be sure to check out my other related posts Making A Bromeliad Tree – Part One, and Making A Bromeliad Tree – Part Two!