Common Bromeliad Care Mistakes

Overwatering

Overwating

The most common mistake is overwatering. It is often assumed that because  bromeliads are tropical, they need a lot of water all of the time. It is true that many bromeliads like humidity, but they do not like their feet wet. Most bromeliad’s roots act more like an anchor than the main source for taking up water and nutrients. Therefore, if the soil remains constantly wet, the roots will likely rot, ultimately killing the plant.  To avoid this problem allow the potting media to dry before adding more water to the soil. Even if it appears dry on top, it may be retaining water farther underneath the surface. Stick you finger into the pot and check a few inches down to make sure the potting media feels dry. If you are unsure, err on the side of not having enough water. Most bromeliads can tolerate drought. They will not thrive and grow in consistent drought, but they are less likely to die of drought than rotting.

Pots that are too large

As mentioned above, most bromeliad’s roots act as anchors and do not grow very large. usually a small pot, between four and six inches will be large enough to hold a bromeliad. Using a pot that is too large for a bromeliad will result in the potting media retaining too much water and the bromeliad will suffer the same consequences as overwatering; the roots are likely to rot eventually causing the plant to die. When you plant a bromeliad pup, or offset, in a small pot, you may need to stake the pup until it has developed sufficient roots to remain upright on its own.

Using Dirt

Orange Bromeliad

Never use garden dirt or top soil in a pot meant for bromeliads. Soil from the ground will be too dense and retain too much water. It may also carry disease, fungus and pests that will damage a bromeliad. Instead, use a potting media that is specially formulated for growing bromeliads. There are many soil-less mixtures on the market that are designed to allow drainage in the pot. These bromeliad potting mixes can be found at garden centers and nurseries.

Exposure to copper

Bromeliads are very sensitive to copper and exposure can cause damage and even the death of a plant. It may seem unlikely that a plant will be exposed to copper, but there are a few instances when it is possible, if the grower is unaware of the presence of copper. The two most likely accidental exposures could occur when mounting an epiphytic bromeliad. Do not use copper wire when mounting a bromeliad. Water resistant glue is a good alternative to wire for mounting.  Also, avoid using treated wood when choosing a mount for a bromeliad. It is usually pressure treated with copper to make it more weather resistant. Copper can also be found in some fungicides. If you are using a fungicide, make sure it is specified for use on bromeliads.

Assuming all bromeliads are the same

There 57 different genera of bromeliads, within those 57 genera are over 3,000 different species and many more cultivars. While many bromeliads are similar, some have unique adaptations that they have developed to survive in their native habitat. Cryptanthus, for example like to stay moist, while most other bromeliads like to dry out a bit between waterings. Neoregelia, on the other hand, like dry, bright conditions. They respond with particular sensitivity to environmental conditions such as light, humidity and fertilization.

All bromeliads originate from warm, South American climates (except for one that originates from Africa), but some are adapted to thrive in arid regions, while other are adapted for growth in humid regions. Some bromeliads grow naturally on forest floors, while others grow clinging to trees and other host surfaces. Make sure you know what kind of bromeliad you have and how to best care for it. There are a few questions you should ask the grower before you buy a bromeliad: Should it be mounted or grown in potting media? Does it like humidity or dry climates? How much light does it need? How big will the plant get? Make sure you can properly care for that specific type of bromeliad before you invest in the plant.

Exposure to an infested plant

Bromeliads have few pest problems, especially when grown in the home. They are so far away from their original habitat that natural predators don’t pose much threat. However bromeliads can be susceptible to mealybugs, aphids and scale. If the infestation happens in your home, it is most likely because a previously infested plant was introduced into the environment.  Any time you purchase a new bromeliad, you should keep the plant quarantined from other plants for three weeks. Even if no traces of the pests exist when you bring home the plant, eggs, invisible to the naked eye,  could hatch and spread pests to other plants. During this three week time, watch closely for insect infestations. If the plant remains pest free at the end of the trial period you can place it with your bromeliad collection without fear of introducing new pests.

Hard Water

If you have hard water, as it evaporates or is taken up into the plants, it can leave deposits both on the leaves near the base of the plant and in the tank. These deposits can damage the leaves and make them more susceptible to damage from disease.  If you regularly put water in the tank, the cup that is formed where the leaves meet, be sure to flush it out regularly to avoid the build up of salts. As an alternative to tap water, you can use rain water or distilled water. This will prevent the build up of any minerals.

Bromeliad care is really very straightforward. If you are a beginner, do not be intimidated by these potential mistakes. Most bromeliads are very resilient, if they are showing signs of problems, they can be easily salvaged once you discover what the trouble is. When your bromeliad is not looking as healthy as you think it should, start by evaluating the moisture content in your pot. If water doesn’t seem to be the problem, evaluate if your plant is receiving the appropriate light an humidity for its variety. Ensure that your plant is free from pests and look for any hidden exposures to copper.

Be vigilant and at the first sign of a problem begin seeking out a solution  The earlier a mistake is discovered and corrected, the easier it is for the bromeliad to recover and remain a beautiful houseplant to display.

Sources

“Bromeliad Society International” <http://www.bsi.org/brom_info/FAQ.html>

“Bromeliaceae” Wikipedia <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bromeliaceae>

Johnson, Carol. “Cultural Hints for Bromeliad Growers.” Florida Council of Bromeliad Growers. <http://fcbs.org/index1.html>

Tillandsia are referred to as air plants because of the unique way they grow. Most are epiphytes, meaning they grow on surfaces other than soil on the ground, such as trees. They are not parasitic, as they gather all of their own nutrients and water and cause no harm to their host plants. Spanish Moss exemplifies the name air plants, as you can see it dangling from telephone wires and tree branches.  Tillandsia can be a fun addition to a terrarium or any bromeliad collection, indoors or outdoors. It is important to understand how they grow, in order to best provide for their needs and help them thrive.

How Tillandsia Grow

Spanish Moss

Tillandsia grow attached to other surfaces, a few can be grown in a pot or in the ground, but typically they grow best mounted on another structure. Most plants in other genera have roots that take up water and nutrients from the soil. On a Tillandsia, roots are primarily used as support. The roots attach themselves to the host plant or mount, and instead of taking up moisture and nutrients from the ground, they absorb them from the air. Hence the name, air plants.  They have small protrusions on their leaves that do the job of taking in moisture and nutrients, these structures are called trichomes. In their natural habitat, the plant takes in water that comes from rain, and dew. They cannot survive on humidity alone.

Like most bromeliads, most Tillandsia only flower once. Often, before they flower, some of the leaves, called bracts may turn a bright color such as pink or red. A bromeliad flower will usually last for a long time, but after the flower is spent, the plant will die. Before the plants dies, it will produce offspring called pups. These pups can be separated from the mother plant and grown individually.

Growing Needs

Needs for light, temperature and water can vary greatly between species of Tillandsia. Some are more adapted to arid climates, while others prefer humid environments. None are frost tolerant, but many will tolerate high temperatures. Before attempting to grow a Tillandsia, find a species that fits your growing environment well. There are a few questions you can ask yourself; do you want to place them in a humid terrarium? Do you want to grow them in your dry, heated home? How much light do I have available? These questions will help you find a Tillandsia that will fit your growing capabilities.

Water

A general rule is that plants with thin leaves thrive in rainy or humid areas, while plants with thick leaves thrive in drier climates. It very significant to the plant’s health that once mounted, your Tillandsia receives enough water. It is a misconception that misting your plant will provide enough water to survive. While many Tillandsias are very drought tolerant, they will go dormant and not thrive, if they are not watered properly. To water your plant, you can soak it thoroughly with a hose or run it under the kitchen sink for a few minutes. If your plant is suffering from severe dehydration, you can soak it for up to twelve hours to revive it. It is wise to water your plant two to three times a week. The Bromeliad Society International also discusses the much debated time of day (night or morning) best for watering Tillandsias.  Unlike many other plants, Tillandsias take up carbon dioxide at night. Most plants open their stomata on their leaves to gather carbon dioxide during the day. The process of photosynthesis uses sunlight to change carbon dioxide into energy. However, this can result in a loss of precious amounts of water. In order to avoid this loss of water, Tillandsias have adapted to open their stomata at night to prevent evaporation during daylight heat. If the plant is watered in the evening or at night, it will not have time to dry before the stomata open. The water will block the stomata and, over time, cause the plant to suffocate. Therefore, the best time of day to water a Tillandsia is in the early morning. This will give the plants plenty of time to dry out before they increase their intake of carbon dioxide.  If you choose to put your Tillandsia in a terrarium, make sure there is sufficient airflow so that the plant will not constantly remain wet. The plant must dry out between waterings, or it can both suffocate and rot.

Mounting

Tillandsia Cyania

Tillandsias can be mounted to any number of surfaces; wood, cork bark, seashells, and rocks are a few good examples. Rough surfaces work particularly well.  Any waterproof glue, such as plumbers glue can be used, as well as wire or even staples, to attach the plant to the host surface. Hot glue can be used, but, because water causes hot glue to break down, it will need to be replaced eventually. Do not use anything that has copper in it for a mount or attachment, such as treated wood or wire. Copper can cause significant damage to bromeliads.  You can cut away roots that are in the way of a proper mount without cause any damage. However, be careful not to cut or staple through any living tissue. This will cause permanent damage to the plant. Tillandsias can even be placed on rocks in a pot. However, be careful when you are watering a plant mounted this way, because the roots must not stay wet. If they sit in water, they will rot, causing damage to the whole plant.

Light

An office is an excellent plant for Tillandsias. Because of their size, they can be perfect for a desk, or even to hang on a cubicle. And, florescent lighting in an office space will provide enough light for the plant to grow.  In your home, a Tillandsia will do well in indirect sunlight. The plant will enjoy a lot of light. However, too much direct sun, such as a south facing window, can burn the plant and cause damage to the leaves.  Outdoors, a light shady space, under a tree for example, is a good spot for a Tillandsia.

With the number of beautiful, unique species and the versatility in methods for mounting, there is no limit to what you can create with Tillandsia plants. They are a fun addition to any collection and can be easy to care for when you follow a few simple rules. Always water your plants thoroughly, do not let them sit in water for long periods of time and provide adequate amounts of light.

Sources

Flower, Andrew. Vampires, Tillandsias… Things That Go Suck In The Night. Bromeliad Society International. <http://www.bsi.org/brom_info/growing/cam.html>

Air Plants -Tillandsia <http://plants.web-indexes.com/airplants/index.html>

Bromeliad Society/ Houston.

 <http://bromeliadsocietyhouston.org/genera-intro/tillandsia/>

Tillandsia. Wikipedia <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tillandsia>

Mealybug Species & Bromeliads

Mealybugs

Mealybugs are a type of soft scale. They feed on the sap of bromeliads, puncturing the living tissues on leaves and roots, causing significant damage to the plant. There are several different varieties of mealybugs. The pineapple mealybug is common on bromeliads and can be found in the roots or on the leaves, particularly in the crevasses where leaves come together. These mealybugs have a characteristic common to many mealybugs, waxy filaments that surround the body. They appear almost as legs. The striped mealybug has two dark stripes that run lengthwise down the body. It does not have the waxy filaments, and it is common on a number of plants, especially in Florida. The grape mealybug has the waxy filaments surrounding the body and two longer filaments on the end of the body. Rhizoecus americanus and Rhizoecus floridanus can be particularly devastating, as they feed on roots, below the soil line and are often not detected until damage to the plant is already sustained. These descriptions of mealybug varieties come from the University of Florida Entomology Department.

Life Cycle

Mealybugs live in colonies and reproduce quickly. If the conditions are right, such as in a greenhouse, mealybugs can produce up to four generations in a year. Depending on the species, each mealybug female can produce between 50 and 200 offspring. Male mealybugs become winged when they are mature. They do not feed off the plants, but exist solely to reproduce. It is important to catch mealybugs quickly so that they can be removed easily. A small infestation is much easier to manage than one that has covered a plant or spread to several plants.

Identifying a Mealybug Outbreak

There are several ways to identify a mealybug infestation on your bromeliads. While hard scale usually appears as brown, yellow or red dots on leaves, mealybugs appear to be a cottony mass. Many mealybugs are covered in a waxy layer to protect their bodies, many also cover their eggs with a waxy coating. This is what produces the appearance of the cottony masses.  Other indicators of mealybugs include a sticky substance on the leaves called honeydew. Honeydew is excreted by the mealybug after they take up the sugary sap from the plant. If ants are present near your bromeliad, check for mealybugs. Ants feed off the honeydew left by mealybugs and will even defend them from natural predators in order to protect and maintain their food source. If you have a mealybug infestation on a bromeliad, the leaves may begin to turn brown and the general health of your plant will decline. If your plant is not thriving and you do not notice any white cottony patches on the leaves, lift the plant from its container and carefully check the roots for any mealybugs.  Also, be sure to check crevasses where leaves come together and places on the plant that are not easily visible. Mealybug infestations may start out in these hard-to-see places.

Managing Mealybugs

There are few ways to manage and remove mealybugs from bromeliads. If the infestation is small, The Bromeliad Society International recommends using a cotton swab to swipe the mealybugs with Isopropyl Alcohol. If there are several colonies on the plant, you can spray it with a mixture of mild dish detergent and water. The soap will suffocate the mealybugs. However, there is potential to suffocate your plant as well. Once the bugs are taken care of, wash your plant to remove any excess soap and allow your bromeliads to “breath.” It is also a good idea to wash the plants with a strong  water spray to remove any residual eggs from the plants.

If you raise bromeliads outdoors or in a greenhouse, biological controls can be used. Biological control means using natural predators to control pest populations. Many outdoor pests are kept under control through the natural presence of predators. In greenhouses, lady beetles and parasitic wasps can be introduced.

Pink Bromeliad

As a last resort, chemical insecticides can be used to remove a mealybug infestation. Care must be taken, as these chemicals can be harsh on plants and are toxic to people and pets. If used on a houseplant, be sure to spray the plant outside. Then find a place to quarantine the plant away from pets and children for several days.  If used outdoors, chemical insecticides can also damage natural predator populations. This will make a future infestation even more difficult to control. Before you spray, always consult professionals, either the vendors of the chemicals or an agent at your local extension office, to ensure you are using a chemical that is safe for bromeliads and to teach you how to handle the chemical properly.

Horticultural soaps and oils are safer to use, as they are not toxic and work by suffocating the mealybugs. However, it is usually necessary to make several applications because each mealybug must be touched by the soap or oil, in order to be removed. It is also important to apply the soaps or oils in mild temperatures, as extreme hot or cold could damage the plant.

If you have a plant that is severely infected, while other plants remain healthy, the most practical solution may be to remove and destroy the struggling bromeliad. This will protect other plants in your collection. While it is difficult to sacrifice a loved plant, it is much easier to sacrifice a single bromeliad, than an entire collection of house or greenhouse plants. Once the infested plant is removed, be sure to keep a close watch on your remaining plants. Small colonies of mealybugs can be removed quickly if they were passed to a new plant.

Hard scale infestations can be managed in very similar ways to mealybugs and in most cases manual removal with a cotton swap of alcohol will take care of the problem. Be sure to remove the scales themselves as the females lays eggs underneath them.

Points to Remember

There are a few things to keep in mind as you care for your bromeliads and protect them from pests:

• Keep a watchful eye, a few mealybugs are easier to remove than a large infestation.
• Check the roots, mealybugs can live below the soil level too.
• Manual removal is the easiest and most practical control option, use a cotton swab of rubbing alcohol to swipe mealybug colonies.
• Follow up with a strong spray of water to remove any eggs.
• Use the utmost care if you choose to apply chemicals and always seek the advice of a professional.

Mealybugs are a common nuisance on bromeliads, but they don’t have to destroy your bromeliad collection. With a watchful eye and quick intervention, your plants can easily survive mealybugs.

Sources

Larson, Barbara. Insect and Related Pests of Bromeliads, Entomology and Nematology Department University of Florida, Gainesville <http://fcbs.org/articles/BromeliadPests/BromeliadPests.htm>

Mealybug, Wikipedia. <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mealybug>

Mizell, R.F., III. 1998. Management of scale insect pests of bromeliads. <http://BromeliadBiota.ifas.ufl.edu/scalecontrol.htm>

Frequently Asked Questions, Bromeliad Society International. <http://www.bsi.org/brom_info/FAQ.html>

Cox, Jennifer. Lontailed Mealybug Life Cycle, HortFact. <http://www.hortnet.co.nz/publications/hortfacts/hf401032.htm>

Bromeliad Potting Soil

Potted Galactic Warrior Bromeliad

It is true that you rarely want to use top soil or garden soil for a container plant. It is too dense and does not allow for proper drainage. Plants growing in this medium will rot quickly and not be successful. You can purchase a soil-less potting mix at garden stores and nurseries. But, even this mix maybe too dense for air loving bromeliads.

Bromeliads have three growing habits, epiphytic, terrestrial and saxicolous. Meaning they grow on other plants (typically trees), in the ground, or on rocks. Many bromeliads that would grow on trees in their natural habitat can also grow terrestrially.  Even though they are planted in the ground, they still need good air circulation and a chance to dry in between waterings. These special needs of bromeliads require special potting mixes that give them proper support and allow for fast drainage.

Potting Mix Suggestions

Special potting mixes for bromeliads can be purchased at nurseries and garden stores. Unfortunately, often these potting mixes can be expensive. It is possible to mix your own bromeliad potting mix from purchased ingredients, or even your own homemade ingredients.  The LSU Ag Center suggests using equal parts sphagnum peat moss, medium grade horticultural perlite and fine fir bark. The Treasure Coast Bromeliad Society suggests using 1/2 potting soil, 1/4 perlite and 1/4 orchid bark. The Bromeliad Society International recommends using equal parts soil-less potting soil, perlite and pine bark nuggets. Other suggested materials include sand, tree fern, coconut shells.

About Potting Mix Ingredients

Sphagnum peat moss comes from decayed sphagnum. Sphagnum grows in bogs and is adapted to retain water within its structure. Sphagnum is useful in mixes for bromeliads because it helps retain water when the soil is dry, and holds water within it when damp, preventing the roots from staying too soggy. These natural properties will help the bromeliad get the water it needs while preventing root rot. It also provides stronger support for the top heavy plants. Sphagnum peat moss will also add some acidity to the soil, which bromeliads typically prefer. It can be purchased in garden supply stores.

Perlite is usually formed from obsidian, a volcanic rock. When it is heated it expands greatly and the finished product is incredibly light. Perlite prevents soil mixes from becoming too compacted to let water move through easily. It does not retain water well itself, therefore it is ideal for adding to mixes for bromeliads.

Fir bark also adds to the acidity of the soil-less mix. It adds texture and encourages movement of water through the container. Fir bark can be found at garden suppliers. It is often sold as “Orchid Bark” as well.

When you understand that the purpose of the soil is to allow for maximum air and water flow while still providing support, water and nutrients to the plants, you can feel free to try various mixes and substances to get a soil-less mix that will be perfect for your bromeliad. If you do chose to use any compost from your yard as part of the mix, be sure that you bake it first. This will remove any pests, viruses, bacteria, or fungus that could harm your bromeliad or any other container plant.

Repotting Bromeliads

Red Soil Pineapple Plantation

When you purchase a bromeliad from a florist or garden center, they are typically in bloom and will not grow more. Bromeliads have very small root systems and these plants will not need to be repotted during their lifetime in your home. However, if you purchase a very small bromeliad that has not yet produced a bloom you will need to repot it. Once, your small bromeliad has grown out of its pot you will need to move it to a larger one. If your pot is not retaining any water, you know it is time to repot.  A six inch container is most likely the largest size your bromeliad will need. Make sure that your container is very clean. If it has been used in the past wash it several times with mild soap and water, being careful to rinse it well. You can also use a very diluted solution of bleach to wash the container.  Let the container dry well before repotting the bromeliad. When your container is ready, fill it almost to the top with your special bromeliad potting mix. Then place the bromeliad in the container and press more potting mix around it. Take care to ensure that all of the leaves are above the potting mix. Air circulation around these lower leaves is critical to the health of the plant.  If your plant is too top heavy, you may have to stake it until its roots are well established.

Also if you notice the potting mix around you bromeliad consistently becoming soggy and staying soggy (and you are not overwatering), you may need to try a different mix. Bromeliads that stay wet can be severely damaged by root rot.  Carefully remove the plant, gently shaking as much of the old soil off as possible.Wash the old container well, replace the mix with a potting mix that contains more perlite or sand, increasing the drainage capabilities. As mentioned above, plant the bromeliad, making sure that all of its leaves are above the soil. Do not ever let your bromeliad sit in a saucer of water.

Bromeliad pups can also be removed from the mother plant and potted in a similar fashion. Start with a small pot and you may have to repot increasing the size once during the bromeliad’s lifetime. It will take about two years for the new bromeliad to produce a bloom.

Any time you plant a bromeliad keep these things in mind:

• Smaller pots are better, even large bromeliad plants have small root systems.
• Clean pots are important to keep your plant healthy.
• Your soil mix must allow excellent drainage.
• Keep all of the plant’s leaves above the soil line.

Displaying in a Large Pot

If you would like to use a larger pot to display the bromeliad there are several options. If the container is very large, place an empty pot upside down in the container, then place the bromeliad pot on top of it. Fill some of the space with packing peanuts or even pieces of  cardboard and then place sphagnum moss around the top, making the bromeliad appear as though it is planted in the large container. However you arrange your container within a container, make sure that the drainage holes are not blocked for the bromeliad container, and that watering will not damage your set up. If watering will be a problem, simply remove the bromeliad container. Then you can water it, let it dry a bit and replace it without damaging the set up or allowing the bromeliad to stay too soggy.

Individual Needs

Different species of bromeliads may have different needs. The climate in your area, including humidity, and amount of sunlight will also affect your potting mix needs. Check with your local growers to see if they have a preferred potting mix for your variety. In general most bromeliads need good drainage, good air circulation and good support and they will thrive in their container environment.

Sources

“Bromeliads Make Great Housplants” LSU AgCenter, Dan Gill, <http://text.lsuagcenter.com/en/communications/news/get_it_growing/read_more/Bromeliads-make-great-houseplants.htm>

“Tips for Caring for Your Bromeliad” Treasure Coast Bromeliad Society <http://www.tcbromeliadsociety.org/tips.htm>

“Perlite” Wikipedia <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perlite>

“Sphagnum” Wikipedia <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sphagnum>

Bromeliad Society International <http://www.bsi.org/brom_info/FAQ.html#potting>

Outdoor Bromeliad Care

Variegated Pineapple - Bromeliad

For people living in climates that have a colder season, bromeliads do well during the summer, in containers on porches and patios. If you want the bromeliads to appear as part of your landscaping, dig a hole and bury the container. This way the bromeliad will look like it is growing in the ground, but it can be easily moved inside before any frost sets in.

Indoor Bromeliad Care

Bromeliads make great indoor plants. They have few needs and very few problem pests. With the right care you can enjoy bromeliads in your home year round or seasonally during the winter for many years.

Water

The first care concern is water. Bromeliads are adapted to withstand drought, but cannot survive root rot that comes from being overwatered. It is important that your bromeliad is planted in a medium that allows for fast drainage, and that your pot allows water to move through easily.  Each time you water the potting medium, thoroughly soak it so that the water runs out the drainage holes, this will remove any salt build up in the potting media. Don’t water the bromeliad again until at least the top two inches of potting media are dry. Any more often than this and the plant will be sitting in too much water and could succumb to root rot. Many bromeliads also have what is often called a tank. This is the part of the plant where the leaves meet together and form a sort of cup. Bromeliads can also take in water by filling the tank. However, if you fill the tank you must clean it frequently to prevent salt build up and remove any fungus. Sitting water in the tank also risks rotting the flower spike. Watering just the potting media should be sufficient for most bromeliads, so you don’t have to risk keeping the tank full. If you have an epiphytic bromeliad, meaning a bromeliad that is growing on a rock, tree bark, or other mount, instead of a pot with potting media, watering is a bit different. You can simply keep the plant moist by misting it regularly. It is important to never use a metal container to water a bromeliad. Bromeliads are very sensitive to metal and the results could be devastating to your plant.

Humidity

Another moisture concern is humidity. Just like bromeliads that are grown outdoors, indoor bromeliads also need ideally 60% humidity. This level of humidity can be very difficult to maintain, especially in a home that is being heated by a furnace in the winter. There are several options for increasing the level of humidity. The first is you could buy a humidifier and run it regularly, close to the plant’s location. The next is you can take a tray, fill it with small pebbles or decorative stones, then fill it with water. You can set your pots on or near the tray and the water will add moisture to the air. If you set the container on top to the tray, make sure it is not setting in the water. This will keep the bromeliad’s roots too soggy. Another option is to place a few more plants in the vicinity of the bromeliad, transpiration will help raise the humidity. The final option is simple, but requires a bit more diligence, use a spray bottle to mist the plant regularly.

Pots and Potting Media

Pots and potting media can directly affect the moisture levels in the bromeliad. If you are in an arid region or raising you bromeliad in a heated home. It would be wise to use a plastic pot because they tend to hold in more moisture. If you are living in a very humid area a clay pot should work well. Never use soil to pot you bromeliad, it is too dense and will become soggy. Instead you can use potting mixes specially formulated for bromeliads, or mix your own using porous materials.

Light

Bromeliads have a wide range of tolerance for light. Some varieties prefer bright light, while other thrive in almost constant shade. For the most part bromeliads like bright sunny spaces, but not direct light. Exposure to a lot of direct sunlight for an extended period of time can cause damage to the leaves. In the winter, a south facing window is ideal.

Fertilizing

It is not necessary to fertilize bromeliads very often. You can occasionally use a water soluble fertilizer, but be careful to watch for salt build up.  If you want to encourage the production of pups (offshoots of the mother plant, that can eventually be repotted on their own) then fertilize slightly more frequently.

Flowering

Deep Red Bromeliad

Bromeliads flower only once. The brightly colored leaves that are often mistaken for flowers, are actually bracts or modified leaves. Typically small flowers grow within these attractive bracts. Some species send up a flower spike that extends well above the plant. Once a Bromeliad has flowered it will no longer produce new leaves. It will (or already has) produced pups. The flower on a bromeliad can last 2-3 months and the colorful bracts even longer.You can cut back the flower once it becomes unsightly. Eventually the mother plant will also die, it will however, introduce pups. Pups can be allowed to grow with the mother plant. Or, once they have grown to be about six inches they can be repotted and allowed to grow into an individual plant. Pups grown separate from the mother plant will take about 2 years to reach flowering stage. Pups left attached to the mother plant will grow slightly faster.

Following a few simple steps can keep you enjoying bromeliads, both indoors and out, for several seasons.

• Make sure the plants stay moist but not soggy.
• Provide bright light without direct sun.
• Maintain optimal humidity.
• Keep air flowing around the plants.
• Fertilize sparingly
• Provide adequate drainage.

Always read the specifications for your particular bromeliad so that you can provide the proper amount of light and water, and enjoy a piece of the tropics in your own home!

Sources

“Bromeliad Fact Sheet” Smithsonian Institution, Katie Elzer,

http://gardens.si.edu/horticulture/res_ed/fctsht/brome.html

“How to Care for Bromeliads” WikiHow, http://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-a-Bromeliad

Bromeliad Society International, http://www.bsi.org/

Pineapple History

The pineapple was first introduced in Spain by Christopher Columbus who had found the fruit in the Caribbean Islands. It was named piña (the Spanish word for pine cone) because of its resemblance to the pine cone. In the English language it was referred to as the pineapple, as were pine cones, which were assigned their new name later.  While Columbus found the fruit in the Caribbean, the fruit traces its origins back to southern Brazil and Paraguay. Since its introduction to Europe, the pineapple has been popularized all over the world.  Part of its spread around the globe may be attributed to its use on ships to prevent scurvy. James Dole started one of the first United States companies to begin growing pineapples in Hawaii. He began with his first pineapple plantation in 1900. Dole opened a cannery a year later in 1901. Del Monte followed shortly after in 1917.  In 2009, however, it was the Philippines that topped the world’s pineapple production, producing 2,198 thousand metric tons of fruit.  While pineapple can be delicious fresh from the grocery store, it can also be fun to grow in your home or greenhouse.

Grow Your Own Pineapples

There are several ways to start a pineapple plant. The easiest way to get started is to purchase a pineapple from the grocery store. Grasp the leaves (the crown) of the pineapple near where they meet the fruit. Gently twist, while pulling away from the fruit. The leaves will pull off leaving only a small nubbin where they once met the fruit. If there is any extra flesh attached, remove it as it could cause root rot later. Next gently pull away the bottom few layers of leaves, as you do this you will expose new roots. Pull the leaves away about an inch up the stalk or until you no longer see the root starts. Allow the crown to dry 5-7 days before planting.

Choosing a Container

Once you are ready to pot your pineapple, choose an 8 inch container.  Eventually, the plant will need to be transplanted to a larger pot. Many grocery store bought pineapples can grow as tall as four feet and have a four foot diameter. There are other varieties that can be purchased from growers that do not grow as large. To prepare your container, place a pottery shard over the drainage hole and fill the rest of the pot, minus a few inches with potting mix. Pineapples are not particular about soil, so any commercial potting mix that allows drainage will work. Then place the crown in the pot and add soil around it. Pat the soil so that the crown stands up, but do not pack it tightly.  Be careful not to disturb the crown for a few weeks, when the roots take hold. Until then, it will be top heavy and easily tipped.

Water

To finish, water the soil thoroughly, but do not let it become very soggy. Pineapples do not do well when they stay wet. Continue to keep the soil moist but not wet.  Pineapples are drought tolerant and will grow more slowly, but not die, when they do not receive enough water. However, the roots will rot if over watered. It is better to err on the side of under watering.

Light

Pineapples perform well in tropical climates, and persistent freezing temperatures will kill it. If you live in an area with a winter season, your plant will need to remain indoors. Choose a sunny window that will not get too cold at night. When you are planning the space in which your pineapple will grow, keep in mind the eventual size and make sure there is enough room.  Pineapples prefer a lot of light to grow. If you do not have a window with enough light, or your days become very short in the winter, you may want supplement with artificial grow lights. If you are planning to move your pineapple outdoors for the summer, start it out in a shady space for a week, until it acclimates, then place the plant in direct sun.

Fruit

While the pineapple plant provides beautiful foliage all the time, the fruit requires patience. It can take as long as three years between planting the crown and harvesting the fruit. When the plant produces fruit has largely to do with the size and maturity of the plant. In ideal conditions, between 12 and 14 months the plant will start an inflorescence bud in the center of the leaves. Two months later a bright red cone appears. The cone will then be covered with a blue flower lasting only a day. Flower development typically happens during days of shorter duration. After the flowering, the pineapple may take another four months or longer to ripen. When the fruit has turned from green to a golden color it is ripe. It will also have a sweet smell.

Propagation

After the pineapple produces fruit it will produce suckers. The suckers grow faster while attached to the original plant, so wait as long as possible; at least allow them to grow twelve inches, before removing them.  These plants are likely to produce fruit a bit faster than growing the plant from the crown of the pineapple. Once the sucker or slip is removed from the plant, you can start it growing the same way the crown was started for the original plant.

Pests

The most common pests for the home grown pineapple are scale and mealy bugs. For a small infestation, they can be washed off with mild soap and water, and then rinsed.  For a larger infestation, pesticides can be used. However, be sure to follow the instructions carefully and seek the advice of a professional before application.

Uses

The pineapple fruit has a variety of uses. It is sweet and delicious eaten fresh, however, if it is unripe it can be poisonous and cause severe stomach irritation.  Fresh pineapple cannot be added to jams or gelatin because it contains an enzyme called bromelain. Bromelain breaks down protein therefore hindering jams and gelatins from setting.  This same enzyme also makes fresh pineapple juice an excellent tenderizer for meet and is found in many different marinades. Bromelain is broken down when pineapple is cooked, so canned pineapple does not contain the enzyme. It can be used without concern for the effects of Bromelain.

Downsides of Commercial Production

Commercially produced pineapple does have some draw backs. A substantial amount of organophosphates, a dangerous pesticide, is used on pineapple plantations. In Costa Rica, Europe’s largest pineapple supplier, 20 kilograms of various pesticides are used per hectare, per growing cycle. Not only does this harm biodiversity, soil quality and drinking water, but it can also pose a threat to laborers’ health. By purchasing organic pineapples or growing your own, you can avoid contributing to this problem.

Hospitality

Dating back to colonial times, the pineapple has been a symbol of hospitality. Throughout the United States it can still be found as wood carvings in gardens, hanging on front doors, placed in centerpieces on tables and anywhere else a guest may be welcomed. This majestic fruit can be fun to enjoy on decorations and as a plant in your home. It is a beautiful and easily propagated bromeliad. Under the right conditions, it can even provide a delicious treat. With patience and care you can enjoy growing your own fresh pineapple.

Sources

“Pineapple” Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pineapple

“Starting a Pineapple Plant From a Pineapple” Bromeliad Society International.  John Atlee http://www.bsi.org/brom_info/growing/pineapple.html

“Pineapple” Fruits of Warm Climates. Julia F. Morton. http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/pineapple.html

“How to Grow a Pineapple in Your Home” Pineapple Research Institute of Hawaii http://tpss.hawaii.edu/pineapple/pinegrow.htm

Before we discuss what to use as growing media for bromeliads, there are a few things you must understand about the anatomy of bromeliads and how they collect water and nutrients to grow.

Types of Bromeliads

There are three types of bromeliads, epiphytic, saxicolous, and terrestrial. You are probably most familiar with terrestrial plants. It means exactly what it sounds like; it lives in the ground. Its roots are anchored in the soil and provide stability and some nutrients and water.  Epiphytic comes from greek roots epi meaning upon and phyton which means plant. Epiphytes grow on other plants, usually woody plants. They do not live parasitically, but use the plant as an anchor and gather water and nutrients from the air with small hairs called trichomes. Saxicolous bromeliads grow on rocks, using them as anchors, and gather water and nutrients in the same manner as epiphytes. Many bromeliads can live either as epiphytes or terrestrials. Most bromeliads also collect water in “tanks.” Leaves fuse together to make a rosette shape, water can be poured into these cups and is taken up by the plant. You should rinse these tanks occasionally, as they can be come salinated.

Mounting Epiphytes

Ephiphyte Bromeliad

Epiphytes can be mounted on various structures and add an interesting element to a plant collection. There are different methods for mounting epiphytes, but most involve untreated wood. You can use cork bark or tree fern slabs. Cedar, juniper, oak, mesquite and rosewood are good woods to use that are rot resistant. Stumps also make fun, unique mounts. Make sure that any wood you use is not treated and salt free. Any wood that has been treated with copper will kill the bromeliad. Any surface that is rough and porous, with no chemical will work as a mount.  If you want your mount to hang, be sure to add a hook.

Once you have found a mount you can choose your plant. Many plants in the genres Tillandsia, Billbergia, and Aechmeas are epiphytes that will mount nicely.  It may be easiest to mount pups because their root system has not matured yet. You can use plants that have already formed a root ball in the soil, but you will need to cover the soft roots with sphagnum moss. The moss must be wet down regularly in order for the soft roots to take up nutrients.

One way to attach the bromeliad to the mount is to tie it with fishing line or strips of nylon stockings. The plant must not have any room to wiggle or the roots will break off.

Another way to fix the bromeliad to the mount is with nontoxic glues, such as “Liquid Nails.” Hot glue can be used, but take care to let it cool a few seconds before you attach the plant so that it is not damaged.  Most glues will break down over time especially in the presence of water.  Glues with the ingredients Toluene, VM, and Pnaptha, such as “Shoe Goo” and “Plumbers Goop” are totally waterproof and will not break down over time. Use just a small amount to attach the plant and do not cover the base, or root growth may be inhibited.

The last way to mount cannot be used for all bromeliads, but many produce a long woody stolon. Many Aechmeas produce this feature. This woody stolon can be stapled or nailed to the mount. Be sure to use two nails or staples so that the plant does not turn.

Humidity

Keep in mind that mounted bromeliads need much more water and higher humidity than terrestrial bromeliads. If the air is very dry, roots may have difficulty attaching and foliage will suffer. One way to keep air moist in dry indoor climates, especially during cold months, is to place trays of pebbles or decorative rocks, filled with water, underneath or near the mounts. The water will evaporate into the air and make the environment around the bromeliads slightly more humid.  It is still important to keep a careful eye on mounted bromeliads and water them regularly. You can also mist the plants with a spray bottle occasionally.

Terrestrial Bromeliads

Potted bromeliads also require some special considerations. When you are choosing your growing media be aware that bromeliads cannot grow in regular soil, they must have a mix formulated specifically for potting.  These mixes can vary greatly base on preference and it may take some trial and error to find the mix that is perfect for the bromeliads you want to grow. In general the potting mix must be acidic. It must also be coarse so that water is drained away from the roots. Bromeliads like to be damp but not soggy. If the roots stay too wet for too long they will rot. The potting mix must provide aeration as well, as bromeliads roots do not respond well if they are tightly packed.  You can purchase a mix that is already formulated for bromeliads, and some orchid potting soils work as well. Or, you can make your own potting mixture. Ingredients you can use include humus, orchid bark, coarse perlite, pumice, sphagnum moss and tree fern fibers.

Bromeliad Flower (Genus Tillandsia)

Do not layer your media for drainage, for example putting gravel on the bottom of the pot, this requires that the first layer become saturated before the water will move and you do not want the potting media around the roots to become saturated. A coarse potting mixture will provide plenty of movement and drainage without layering.

Containers

When choosing a container, consider your location and watering habits. If you typically over water or you are keeping your bromeliad in a humid environment, you may want to use a clay pot. This will allow the soil to dry out faster and prevent the roots from becoming too soggy. If you are in a dry climate, or are keeping your plants indoors where there is a lot of air flow such as heat or air conditioning you may want to use plastic or ceramic containers. These containers will keep the roots moist and prevent drying.

The size of a bromeliad is also not an indication of how large your pot should be. Roots for bromeliads are relatively small and should be kept in a small pot. Large pots will stay wet and cause problems for the root systems. Four to Six inches is a large enough container for most bromeliad species. If the bromeliad becomes too large to be stable in such a small container, fill a larger pot, that will support the plant, and then place the small pot inside. This will keep your top-heavy bromeliad stable.

Points to Remember

There are several things to keep in mind as you establish your bromeliads,

• If you are mounting epiphytes, use rot resistant wood that has not been treated.
• Take care to make sure the plants are fastened securely whether with nylon, glue or nails through stolons.
• Take care to make sure your mounted plant is staying moist enough.
• If you are potting a bromeliad, use coarse potting mix that is acidic.
• Plant your bromeliad in a 4-6 inch pot. If your plant is too large, place the small pot within a larger container for stability.

Growing bromeliads can be fun and easy. Your plants will get the healthiest start if they are established in the proper growing media and environment.

Sources

“Bromeliad Basic Culture” Collecting Bromeliads and Orchids in Florida. http://www.jacksbromeliads.com/basicculture.htm

“Bromeliaceae” Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bromeliad

“Mounting Bromeliads” Bromeliad Society Internationl, Odean Head,

http://www.bsi.org/brom_info/growing/mounting.html

When a bromeliad plant reaches maturity it will stop producing leaves and the flower will bloom into a beautiful, unique formation. At this point, the healthy bromeliad will produce offshoot plants from the base called pups.

When your bromeliad begins producing pups it is exciting. The mother plant is reaching its maturity, but is leaving you with more plants to care for in the future. Proper harvesting of the pups can lead to more beautiful bromeliads and the potential for an ongoing generation of bromeliads for your plantscape.

Beginner’s Guide to Bromeliad Pups

Bromeliad pups are offsets of the main bromeliad plant often called the mother plan in this situation. The mother will grow its lone flower and will stop producing leaves. At this point, a mother will beging producing the pups. The pups are easily identified as new offshoots of the original plant. Pups will not have flowers at this point. You will be able to see the cup forming as the pup grows upward from the offset of the base of the mother. When the pup reaches a certain size you are able to harvest, plant, and care for it on its own. The original mother will continue to thrive as a flower and produce more pups. The pup will grow until it reaches its own maturity.

Defining a Bromeliad Pup

Flaming Sword Bromeliads ( Vriesea splendens )

A bromeliad pup is the offset of another bromeliad plant. Once a mature bromeliad reaches the point where it has a healthy flower and a strong core, it will produce pups. The original plant, also known as the mother, will stop producing leaves and will begin producing its pups.

There can be multiple pups grown at the same time. The pups will grow from the base of the mother plant. Pups will grow as they feed off the original bromeliad. Once removed, give plenty of food to the pups. Just as any growing organism needs food, the pups require much food and a good, but not too much, amount of water. The pups require enough food to grow into full blooming bromeliads.

Eventually, the pups will reach a point where they can be harvested and moved to their own location.

Pups form on nearly all bromeliads. The pups form in much the same way on each of the different varieties. There are some differences including specifically the way the pup can grow from the base of the parent, but for the most part the pups will grow from the base of the parent and can be removed by pulling and tearing sideways from the parent or mother bromeliad.

Harvesting a Bromeliad Pup

Pups will eventually start to grow their own root system next to the mother plan. It’s at this point, when the pup is about one third the size of the mother plan, that the pup can be harvested.

The pup can be removed from its place at the base of the mother plan. When the pup is about one third the size of the original plan, you can peel the pup away from the mother. There may be roots forming from the base of the pup. This is a good sign. It means the pup is ready to be on its own in a new pot or in the ground depending on where you are planning to set the plant. If there are no roots you are still in good shape. Make sure the bromeliad pup is of good size before harvesting and it should be ready to go into its own system and no longer will need to feed from the mother plant.

Often times there will be an outer leaf on the outside of the pup. You can tear this leaf away and reveal the entire base of the pup. You can then tear away or cut away the base of the pup from the mother bromeliad.

You can do this with all pups on the mother plant if there are multiple. You can replace the soil around the mother plant and it should continue to bloom and even grow more pups.

And then you can move the pups to their own pots and they will start to mature on their own.

Planting a Bromeliad Pup

There is some care necessary when planing a bromeliad pup.

After you’ve harvested your pups from the mother you’ll want to prepare individual pots or areas for planting. You’ll want to make sure the new plant is placed in a shallow bed of of soil with room for the roots to grow down. This way of planting will leave the pup plant a little top heavy so be sure to set the plant well so it’s balanced.

You can use wood sticks or stakes to hold the plant up until it reaches a level of root quality to withstand its own weight. This is a crucial period for the bromeliad pup. The roots may or may not have grown, but either way the roots will not be able to withhold the top weight of the pup. After some time the roots will form and you’ll have a healthy bromeliad pup that can sustain on its own without the support. It can be very rewarding at this point to know you’ve successfully transferred and planted your own bromeliad pup.

Caring for a Bromeliad Pup

Blooming Pink Bromeliad

Once the bromeliad pup is transferred there are a few steps to take to ensure its success. We’ve already mentioned that you’ll probably need to prop up the top of the plant with wooden spikes or staks. These will support the plant as it grows its roots, which will later support the weight of the leaves and the base of the bromeliad. You can tell the plant is ready to grow on its own by giving a slight pull on the plant. If there is resistance you’ll know the roots have taken hold in the soil and will be able to support the plant. You’ll have to judge a little from your own experience if there is enough support in the root system to support the weight of the plant.

You’ll want to give the pup less light than full grown, mature bromeliads. The pup will need water, but only enough to keep the moisture at a medium level in the soil. You don’t want to over-water the bromeliad pup since this could cause rotting at the base of the plant, which could lead to the plant not making it through this critical stage.

As the plant becomes stable with its roots system you can remove the supports and allow it to start receiving more light. You can provide the plant with some good light in the morning especially during the summer months. Shade for the rest of the day after the morning sun usually leads to a good bloom on a bromeliad. Light, warmth, and humidity seem to be the three factors that lead to strong blooming for bromeliads. This is evident by their nature to grow in the hot climates around the equator and in other areas of much moisture and hot temperatures.

Taking a bromeliad from the pup stage to the full maturity stage is very rewarding. It’s a process that can be repeated over and over. With proper care it can be a great way to slowly build your collection and continue fostering a beautiful garden for generations. With a few proper steps you’ll be able to effortlessly take pups from their mothers to their own pots and have them blooming and looking wonderful in a short period of time. The entire process of the bromeliad pup takes about a year to two years to transpire. It’s a very rewarding process for any gardener and bromeliad enthusiast.

Sources

BSI.org (http://www.bsi.org/)

Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bromeliaceae)

One of the most common in cultivation, probably because it is so easy to grow, is X Cryptbergia rubra. It forms a stiff rosette about 9 inches (23cm) across of 20-30 hard, recurving, tapering leaves, glossy mahogany-red on top, silvery grey beneath. The dense stemless flower head in the center of the plant has the yellow and blue flowers of Billbergia nutans and lasts a week in color. Offsets are produced on short stolons and root easily, to flower in one year. It likes peat and sand compost, with regular feeding at every third watering, and very bright light – almost full sun. A temperature of 45 degrees F (7 degrees C) does not trouble this plant at all.