Bromeliads Care and Culture Overview
Bromeliad Flower Family Care and Culture Information Overview
Information about the care and culture of bromeliad plants and flowers including ideal light, temperature, humidity, air circulation, water, soil and planting beds, potting media and fertilization.
Light
Bromeliads tolerate a wide range of light intensities, including low light, for long periods without ill effects. The plants, however, will look better when they receive proper light. Although optimum light levels vary considerably, the following characteristics are helpful in selecting a spot for a particular plant. Generally bromeliad species with hard, thick, gray, gray-green or fuzzy foliage withstand the highest light levels, while species with soft, green, thin leaves grow best under lower light levels.
A general recommendation is to grow bromeliads where the light level is approximately 1,500 foot candles or where orchids grow well. In a home, a window with a southern, eastern or western exposure is satisfactory for bromeliad growth, but most species must not be exposed to the direct rays of the sun.
In most instances, a bromeliad will indicate by its growth habit whether light levels are satisfactory. A yellowish or pale green plant may indicate that the light level is too high. Conversely, a darker green than normal, with a more open or elongated shape, may indicate low light levels.
It is difficult to categorize bromeliad genera into optimum light levels, because light requirements of species within a genus may differ. The following generalizations can be used as a guideline, however, when selecting bromeliads for a particular site. Plants in the genera Dyckia, Puyas, Hechtias, Ananas and the hard-leaved species in Aechmea and Billbergia grow best at high light levels. Plants in the genera Guzmania, Neoregelia, Nidularium, Cryptanthus and Vrieseas can grow under lower light levels.
Temperature
The majority of bromeliads are tropical or subtropical and thrive outdoors in Florida’s high summer temperatures. Many tolerate temperatures in excess of 100°F. In a home environment, however, bromeliads do best at 70-75°F during the day and between 60 and 65°F at night. Bromeliads native to central and north Florida tolerate temperatures slightly below freezing for short periods, but most introduced species should not be exposed to temperatures below 40°F. As a general rule, the softer-leafed species need a higher temperature, while those with very hard, stiff leaves are much more tolerant of cold.
Humidity
Most bromeliads grow best indoors at a relative humidity of 40 to 60 percent. Unfortunately the average humidity in most homes is well below 40 percent, especially during winter months when heating systems are operating. Humidity levels in the home can be increased by installing an inexpensive humidifier. Humidity in the vicinity of plants can be improved by placing potted plants on a 2 or 3-inch bed of wet gravel. Water evaporating from the gravel increases the humidity. The bottom of the plant pot should never be in or under water, because this causes waterlogged medium, possibly resulting in root damage. Another method of increasing the humidity around plants is to mist them with water frequently during the day.
Air Circulation
Bromeliads, due to their epiphytic nature, require good air circulation. Fresh air supplies them with carbon dioxide and moisture. Plants grown in stagnant air are more apt to be attacked by scale insects and fungal organisms causing the bromeliads to deteriorate rapidly. Air circulation can be improved in a home by simply opening a window on days that are not too cold or by turning on a fan at low speed for most of the day.
Water
Bromeliads are extremely tolerant of low-moisture conditions and will survive prolonged periods of drought. Most of the problems encountered with bromeliads are usually associated with rot caused by over watering. Growing these plants in light, porous potting mixes that drain rapidly should help prevent this problem. Bromeliads grown in a potting mix or in the landscape should be watered when the soil surface feels dry. Plants grown in pots should be watered thoroughly, until water runs out of the bottom of the pot and then not watered until the medium surface feels dry. Under normal household conditions watering thoroughly once a week is usually sufficient. In homes where the relative humidity is low (during winter months and in air-conditioning) plants must be checked and watered more often.
Many bromeliads are formed of a rosette of broad leaves which creates a “cup” or “vase” in their centers. If the plant is supplied with moisture by wetting the soil around its roots, it is not necessary to keep the cup filled with water. Most bromeliads adapt so well to culture in a pot that they absorb the needed moisture and nutrients through their root systems. Keeping the cup filled with water under low light conditions that exist in most homes encourages bacteria and fungus problems. If the cup is kept filled with water, it should be flushed out with plenty of water periodically to prevent possible stagnation. Periodic flushing also prevents a build up of salts left when water in the cup evaporates. Water should be removed from the cup if the temperature is likely to fall below 40°F. This practice will prevent cold damage which appears as a brown line across each leaf at the water level.
Epiphytic bromeliads, such as those found in the genus Tillandsia, are often grown secured to a board or bark. Because these plants have no distinct cup to collect water, they absorb moisture from the air through their scaly leaves. Unfortunately, in an indoor situation, where the humidity is usually very low, they are unable to obtain adequate moisture from the air. Moisture can be supplied to these plants by misting or dousing them in a container of water daily.
Soil and Planting Beds
Bromeliads have a limited root system compared to other flowering annuals and perennials. Roots function primarily as a support or anchoring system. Bromeliads absorb water and minerals through their leaves from the moisture in the air and through their cups. They are not as dependant, therefore, on their root system as are most other plants. It is important, however, to keep their root system alive and in good health. The epiphytic nature of bromeliads prevents plants from tolerating heavy clay soil. To improve these soils, incorporate 2 to 3 inches of organic matter (peat, leaf mold, compost, etc.) into the planting bed. The sandy soils of Florida are usually well drained and good for growing bromeliads.
Potting Media
Most bromeliads grow best in a very porous organic medium which permits quick water drainage and sufficient air circulation around the roots. There is no one potting mix which is better than any other, however, the following mixes are suggested:
- One part peat, one part bark, one part coarse sand
- One part peat, one part bark, one part perlite
- One part peat, one-half part leaf mold, one part coarse sand
Osmunda fiber, unshredded sphagnum moss or tree-fern fiber may substituted for peat moss in these mixes. Some bromeliads thrive best when grown in a medium composed only of osmunda fiber.
Fertilization
Actively growing bromeliads respond to light applications of fertilizer. During the winter months, or under conditions of low light, they require little or no fertilizer. A general purpose, liquid houseplant fertilizer can be applied to the potting mix at 1/3 to ½ of the recommended dosage every 1 to 2 months. It is best not to add fertilizer in the cup because this could lead to an accumulation of fertilizer salts that may burn newly emerging leaves.
Controlled-release fertilizers can be incorporated uniformly throughout the potting mix at planting and applied on the medium surface of established plants. Bromeliads usually grow much better with a continuous nutrient supply. Labor is also reduced because controlled-release fertilizer application frequency is less than for rapid-release fertilizers.
May 22, 2006
comments [43]
TrackBack-URI
Comments
RSS feed for comments on this post.
Leave a comment
Read more
« Bromeliads Propagation Overview
Growing Bromeliads Outdoors Overview »
Mirrian Lindsay posted on June 8, 2006:
I live in the Piedmont area of South Carolina, I sell a lot of Bromeliads, I am a floral manager for a grocery store chain. I appreciate any info you have on this plant.
Nancy Olbrys posted on June 14, 2006:
I live in Zephyrhills Fl. I just got interested in Bromaliads. I think they are very pretty, but one of mine is getting brown on the leaf edges and through the leaf and I can’t figure out why. I also would appreciate all the information you can give.
bromes posted on June 14, 2006:
@Mirrian - Keep coming back, we should have plenty for you to read through to find out more about bromeliads in general and even specific types of bromeliad plants.
@Nancy - Welcome to the site, glad you found us. Do the leaves appear to be burnt looking? Typically, browning is attributed to the growing conditions, environment and possibly even insects or disease.
Over fertilizing can also cause the plant leaves to brown or even curl. Try moving the plant from it’s current location to another suitable spot. Inspect your plant for insects and make sure the plant is not getting too much water, light, fertilizer or humidity.
Florida is native to many scale insects and mealybugs.
Lorie posted on June 14, 2006:
I recently bought my first Bromaliad. It is kept in doors and the leave tips are turning brown and curling under. I have not added any fertilizer nor have I seen any insects. There is also tiny little circular brown spots on the leaves themselves. I read that excess salt left behind after watering could be a possible cause. Any suggestions?
Mr. Bromeliad posted on June 15, 2006:
@Lorie - Make sure that the roots are not in sitting water. Bromeliads require a very well drained watering. Over-watering and under-watering symptoms can be similar. Also the description of small brown round spots sounds very much like scale insects. They may not look like your traditional ‘insect’ so look very closely.
Sandy Berry posted on August 8, 2006:
I received a thin leafed bromelaid in December and about a month ago the flower turned brown and dry. What can I do to salvage the plant and return it to health and hopefully gain a new colorful flower? Also, what did I do wrong? I live in Murfreesboro, TN and love the plant so much, I recently purchased a second one, only it is a broad leaf.
admin posted on August 8, 2006:
@Sandy - Bromeliads only bloom once in their lifetime. You probably didn’t do anything wrong. If you keep taking care of the plant it may produce pups that you can grow and get to bloom after one year of growth. You will find lots of useful info on bromeliads.info to point you in the right direction.
joan posted on August 9, 2006:
My bromeliad problem is that my leaves are turning yellow and limping the the middle not the bottom leaves. Is that too much water or not enough. Should I remove these leaves, and if so, how?
Brenda Plummer posted on August 16, 2006:
My husband and I purchased several bromeliads while on vacation and I think we waited too long to replant them and they all seem to be drying out and dieing. Can I cut off the flower part since it has lost its beautiful coloring? Will it come back?? HELP!
Bap
Dorothea Young posted on September 3, 2006:
I inherited a Bromiliad with a yellow flower. It looked scrawny when I got it and I wanted to rescue the poor thing. The leaves are thriving but the bloom never recovered and is turning brown. How do I best I cut it off? The mother plant seems to have grown a couple of pups so I would like to keep the mother plant. How big do the pups need to be before removing them and how do I do it so that I don’t hurt the plant? Tanks for your help! D. Y.
admin posted on September 4, 2006:
@Dorothea - It’s hard to hurt a bromeliad by cutting the pups or a bloom as long as you’re taking good care of it. The pups should be allowed to grow for at least a week or so before you separate them. Good luck with the new bromeliads!
Mary Jane posted on September 24, 2006:
I was unhappily surprised to hear that bromeliads only bloom once in their lifetime. Is this really really true? I’ve been trying to keep a thin leafed green one alive for 4 years (without flowering) that a friend gave me. Maybe it already flowered.
Claire posted on September 28, 2006:
I just bought a bromeliad and I want to know if it is ok to leave it in the origainal small container if not can I use the miricle grow planting soil?
admin posted on September 28, 2006:
@ Claire - Bromeliads are mostly Epiphytic Plants and when potted on soil it is more a holding medium rather than for food or nutrients. Excellent water drainage is always a strict requirement when using pots. Feeding is not really required, but if you are using soil, time release pellets will boost appearance and blooming. Otherwise it is best to use organics like fish emulsion. I don’t see an issue with using the Miracle Grow soil, but you could certainly find a better way. Let us know if you need some potting media ideas.
kalex posted on October 28, 2006:
I am unsure how to sepearate the pup. I have a silver cup (Morgana). It has grown out of the base and I am unsure if I should cut into the plant and down through a section of the roots to remove it, or if I should just cut it off where it attaches and then somehow root it. Any help is appreciated.
Michelle posted on November 14, 2006:
I believe that I over watered my Bromeliad and the flowers are beginning to turn brown. I’m not sure if this is due to overwatering or the small size of the pot it came in. The leaves are still healthy. Please let me know what to do so I can get the flowers looking healthy again.
Thank you!
Andrea posted on February 5, 2007:
I’m a newbie. Got my first bromeliad as a reject from the reception flower display. Ever since coming down to floor 33, her leaves are curling inward, developing ripples near the roots and turning brown. And the outer leaves of the flower are turning yellow and brown and loosing color. Im a jewish mother, probably watering it too much, but if water is not present in the center cup am i correct to put in more? Please help before it commits hari-kari.
Peggy Cole posted on March 20, 2007:
The pointy ends of the leaves are turning downward!!! Am I overwatering or underwatering??? The bloom is beautiful and I have kept water in the center. The plant is not in direct light, perhaps not enough light??? Please advise. Thank you, Peggy
DIANE ZALNO posted on April 24, 2007:
IT WAS SO WONDERFUL TO READ ALL THESE INTERESTING COMENTS ON THIS PLANT. I HAVE HAD THESE TYPE OF FLOWERS FOR YEARS. I AM ALSO INTO PALM TREES. I LOVE THE TROPICAL PLANTS. I ALSO RUN A HUMIDIFIER IN MY MASTER BATH ROOM WHERE SOME OF THE PLANTS . I ENJOY PLANTS AND FLOWERS AND LOVE THE ENJOYMENT THEY BRING TO ME. I COULD ACTUALLY ENJOY HAVING A GREENHOUSE. SMILE EVERY ONE……
diana posted on April 24, 2007:
I want to repot my pups i see in my mother plant that it has bark mostly along with very little soil is this the way it should be repotted?
admin posted on April 25, 2007:
@ Diane Zalno. It’s so great to hear that you are enjoying our small bromeliad community. I hope my posts have been able to help people and keep them informed on this wonderful plant! I’ve noticed that there isn’t much information on the internet about bromeliads, and that was one of the main reasons I started this blog!
I’m a plant enthusiast, and am always interested in what others want to learn more (or may already know) about. So, I was wondering what kind of tropical plants you enjoy!?! And what kind you grow in your home?
Happy Growing!
admin posted on April 25, 2007:
@ Diana. It’s important to not remove the pups too soon. The offsets feed off of the deteriorating tissues of the parent plant. Also be aware that the offsets will die without rooting, if the humidity is too low or if the pups are taken when too small.
Wait until the parent plant is nearly dead to remove pups. For the first 3 to 4 weeks after repotting offsets, enclose them in a plastic bag to maintain very humid conditions. Check out my post on Propagating Bromeliads for more information on how and when to remove the pups.
As far as what kind of medium to with your pups, orchid potting soil or a bromeliad mix work great! For more detailed information on soil, take a look at my Bromeliad Soil article. Also, for more tips on how and when to repot your bromeliad plant, see my article on Repotting Bromeliads!
I hope this information was able to help. Happy Growing!
Gloria Macena posted on June 27, 2007:
I repotted my pups two months ago. To this time, I do not notice any growth in the repotted pups. How do I know if my plants are alive?
Gib Migliano posted on July 9, 2007:
I have purchased some lavender to red color leaf plants and planted them outside.They turned from a beautiful color to completley green.
Debbie Montoya posted on July 30, 2007:
I purchased a red bromeliad about 2 months ago. My son came for a visit and he accidently broke off the red top. My question is can I plant the top that was broke off, it seems to be rooting in water? The rest of the plant seems to be doing fine, but will another red head grow where the old one was broke off? I do not know very much about this type of plant. I have several types of plants, but only bromeliad.
Penny Wright posted on August 25, 2007:
I’m so glad I finally found some info. on bromeliads..I have quite a few. I am addicted. Most are on the Lanai, and I’ve been wondering what to do with the brown, dried up flowers from the original plants. I didn’t know they only bloom once. Do you have to remove the pups in order for them to bloom? I had a Silver Vase, which I did remove pups from and they are growing nicely. Will they bloom this year or will it be next year?
Thanks for any information…
Penny
Shuvi posted on September 24, 2007:
Did anyone reply to Michelle posted on November 14, 2006? I have the same problem.
Katie posted on October 3, 2007:
I have 3 bromeliads one has 2-tone leaves the other 2 have light green leaves. My 2-tone has a red flower that has been on it for 3 months, is turning green and has not opened. One of the light leaved flowers is open and doing fine. How long does it usually take for the flowers to open and do you cut the flower or not? I would really appreciate any information anyone has to offer.
Dan Grammer posted on October 18, 2007:
I have a Bromeliad plant (Large) on my patio here in So. Florida. It has 3 large pink ball shaped blooms. The blooms are now starting to die. Do I cut them off are let them wilt naturally? Any info is appreciated.
Cheryl posted on October 24, 2007:
I received a very large, thick-leaved, dark-green, red-flowered bromeliad as a gift last weekend. Now, several of the leaves are losing their rigidity and starting to droop. Any idea what I’m doing wrong?
The first couple of days I had it, it was sitting on a west-facing porch that gets several hours of afternoon sun. Then I moved it inside when I learned it couldn’t take direct sunlight. I’ve been watering it every other day by adding water to the cups.
Nicole posted on November 13, 2007:
I got a Bromeliad as a gift and I’m not sure how to take care of it! My plant is green on the outside and healthy looking, and flower on the inside looks dead and brown! What do I need to do to bring it back to life? Or better yet what am I doing wrong?
Mary Ellen posted on November 15, 2007:
When the flower on the plant dies should I cut it out or just leave it alone? My one plant has had the dried dead flower there for about six months now, and no other
flowers have replaced it.
I also have another that I removed the dead flower but it has never grown another flower, what am I doing wrong? Help!!! I love my bromeliads.
Thanks for your help!
Jonathan posted on November 26, 2007:
I got a Bromeliads as a going away gift from my old job. It stayed in my garage for a while while I got settled into my new office. Last Monday I bought it into my new office, now the flower is starting to wilt and losing its bright red color its turning purple and yellow and the leaves are curling inward and look dry. I watered it today as the soil was dry, but want to salvage the flower and the leaves what can I do. It is on my one window in my office next to my Bamboo which I had in my old office and the Periwinkle that I inherited when I began this job from the previous occupant of this office. Any help is appreciated!
Dee posted on December 9, 2007:
I will be moving into my new home in Jan. My neighbor
has many bromeliads around her trees and she does nothing to them. I see them grow beautiful flowers.
She told me I can take as many as I want. My question. What is the best time to dig up and replant outside? I am in Brooksville, Fl.
So glad I came across this site. Thank you Mr Bromeliad for supplying it.
Dee
Marlene E. Mihaich posted on December 28, 2007:
I am taking care of my bosses bromeliad. It was looking very beautiful for a long time and now the flowering part is drying up at the top and the redish/pink leaves on the top have a freckled look. Help! What can I do to fix it?
rick trani posted on January 15, 2008:
If anyone is interested in swapping different types of bromeliads please contact me at ricktrani@aol.com
Venus posted on January 26, 2008:
I have one in my terrarium, but the flower color has faded.. the leaves are fine… Any help? Could it be the humidity?
Krista Wilson posted on February 1, 2008:
I am not sure if this is a website that can help me or not. I recently moved and my ficus tree had gotten cold for about an hour. Unfortunately, a week later and
I have no leaves left. Is there a way to revive it. I have had this plant for years and do not wish to loose it. Any suggestions?
artist posted on February 24, 2008:
I just recieved a bromeliad as a sympathy gift from my mother’s funeral. It is potted and has spanish moss over the top of the soil i assume to keep it moist. It has 3 large flowers,but i am not sure of what type of brom it is.Therefore I don’t know how to care for it. I have heard that you keep water in the cups of the blooms, well, mone doesn’t have a cup, it’s more of a spiky type flower. I live on the gulf coast of Texas, so it stays humid all of the time here. Is it possible to send photos to this site so that you can tell me what type of Brom it is? This plant did not come with instructions.
Lourie posted on March 23, 2008:
can anyone answer the question do you cut the flower off when it is all brown and dead looking or do you leave it on. and what do you do with the pups that are growning on there i have two of them i thought you just leave them there. do i or do i cut them off?
help
Patty in The Woodlands posted on March 28, 2008:
I have purchased several bromeliads in bloom and did not realize that they only bloom once. Is it OK to cut off the flower once it has turned mostly brown??? I will continue to water and hope to get pups some day! Thanks
C McClelland posted on April 21, 2008:
Thanks for this website & blog! Today I was given a bromeliad which the owner replaced because it prewas “dead”. Well, the red flower has turned dry and brown but it appears that two pups have started on the side - and maybe a third tiny one. Based on about 5 min of reading here it sounds like I should just resume/continue watering & maybe get a tray of gravel with water under it to build humidity. Then give it some time for the original plant to either “revive” or deteriorate and remove/replant the pups when/if the original plant is quite done for. Am I doing OK?
Stella posted on April 24, 2008:
My bromeiad has started to smell from the middle cup obviously from having water in it constantly. How can I get rid of the smell? Do I have to keep water in the cup at all times?